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2018 Burgundy
Top Value Selection


With the price of great Burgundy climbing ever higher, there's never been more motivation to cast the net further and check out some of the lesser known or up and coming producers. Here are my top five finds of the vintage. Please let me know if you'd like something.

Domaine Borgeot           

Domaine Borgeot is situated in the village of Rémigny in the Côte de Beaune. It was created in 1903 and is now run by fourth generation brothers Laurent and Pascal Borgeot. Their 23 hectares are in the villages of Bouzeron, Santenay, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet. The magic of Domaine Borgeot lies in the two people who make these charming wines. Pascal is calm, measured and brings an element of control over Laurent, who cannot sit still for one minute. As the saying goes in Burgundy, if you look at the person behind the wines, you will get an idea of the style of wine in your glass. Domaine Borgeot wines exhibit the calm restraint of Pascal balanced with the exuberance and liveliness of Laurent.

Chassagne Montrachet VV
30 bot @ £260 per 6, in bond
Well-integrated matchstick reduction with vivid green-apple fruit and a smoky, toasty finish. Stylish and generous with a long, pithy persistence. Should age well. Drink 2020 – 2030.
17+ points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
 

Georges Glantenay         

Guillaume Glantenay is the sixth generation of his family to run this domaine, which he took over from his father in 2013. His father still works the estate’s eight hectares of vineyard, four of which are in Volnay, while Guillaume runs the new cuverie. For those who remember the wines from his father’s time, Guillaume has brought a greater elegance to the wines, and a lovely purity of fruit. He uses about 15-20% whole bunch to lift the perfumes and low toast oak to support rather than mask these aromas.
 
Chambolle Musigny
24 bot @ £615 per 12, in bond
Fragrant, sweet red fruit with lots of floral accompaniment. Much more convincing than their Pommard and Volnay, with the same sleek, precise balance. Displays the fragrance of the appellation well. Drink 2022 – 2032.
17 points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots
24 bot @ £600 per 12, in bond
Ripe, almost stewed fruit with plentiful oak seasoning giving spiciness. Firm, fine tannins will support ageing, and there is lots of lingering primary fruit on the finish. Again, this is technically adept winemaking that reflects the terroir well in a very conventional style. Drink 2024 – 2034.
17+ points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
 

Jane Eyre       

Jane Eyre-Renard is originally from Melbourne. In 1998, she was working as a hairdresser when she asked a customer, who happened to be the wife of wine writer Jeremy Oliver, if she knew of any wineries where she could do work experience. The Olivers recommended Burgundy, which has since been an inextricable part of Jane’s life. She went on to gain experience working with Cullen in the Margaret River, Felton Road and Ata Rangi in New Zealand and Ernie Loosen in the Mosel. She finally moved to Burgundy in 2004, and started working at Domaine des Comtes Lafon before becoming assistant winemaker at Domaine Newman. Jane has developed her own micro-négociant business and rents a space in a small winery in Bligny-lès-Beaune which she shares with Dominique Lafon.
   
Gevrey Chambertin
36 bot @ £430 per 12, in bond
Two plots. 30% whole bunches. One new barrel out of six. Cadus-coopered barrels always used for this wine. Bottled December 2019.
Distinct, spicy, earthy note that is the essence of Gevrey. Cranberry and red cherry enrich the palate, whose fairly firm, fine tannins merit cellaring. Medium-long. Drink 2023 – 2028.
16.5 points Tim Jackson MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses
36 bot @ £400 per 12, in bond
First wine, made since 2011. 30% whole bunches. One new barrel out of six. Bottled December 2019.
Fresh earth, chocolate and sweet red cherry. Spicy, with peppery, moderate tannins structuring the soft palate. Medium-long. Drink 2021 – 2026.
16 points Tim Jackson MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
Cotes de Nuits Villages
48 bot @ £310 per 12, in bond
Made since 2014. 30% whole bunches. 10% new, 300- and 350-litre oak. Light filtration on all 2018s as the lower acidities and higher pHs increase risks of microbial activity. Bottled December 2019.
Bright, perfumed style, but with a rocky, savoury undertow. Delicate, quite fine tannins give an attractive suppleness, with fair length to match. Drink 2020 – 2024.
15.5 points Tim Jackson MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
Beaune 1er Cru Cents Vignes
24 bot @ £410 per 12, in bond
Made in 2015 and 2017. Same grower as Santenay Gravières. 30% whole bunches. One new barrel out of six. Bottled December 2019.
Scented raspberry, red cherry and a dusty note. Quite ethereal in aromatic profile, with a finesse of tannins to match, and a pretty, long, minerally finish. Will drink relatively early. Drink 2022 – 2027.
16.5 points Tim Jackson MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
 

Moron Garcia   

Childhood friends Mathieu Moron and Pierre Olivier Garcia began their new venture in 2016 when Mathieu’s father gave him a small parcel of vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges. They bought a house in the centre of Nuits and converted it into a winery. Mathieu and Pierre Olivier work the vines in order to restore biodiversity in the vineyards, something they feel has been lost due to the focus on single-crop farming across the region. Their ‘eco-attitude’ means they experiment with cereals, ploughing, planting trees and even use chickens to graze the land, in an attempt to bring back bees and butterflies to their 0.4 hectares of vineyard. In addition, they source grapes from a network of grower friends with whom they work closely, in order to have as much control over the quality as possible.

Marsannay Clos du Roy
30 bot @ £195 per 6, in bond
Succulent red fruit with a touch of vegetal character lurking beneath, and lots of coarse-grained tannin that really covers the palate. Moderate length, strong fruit intensity – a good candidate for the longer term. (RH)
Drink 2026 – 2038.
17+ points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
Beaune 1er Cru Les Tuvilains
12 bot @ £555 per 6, in bond
There's a little bit of farmy funk on the nose, and an intriguing slatiness too – this captures the esoterica of good burgundy, with unusual and charismatic non-fruit flavour, but without sacrificing the balance of primary fruit. Very nicely done. Drink 2025 – 2038.
17.5 points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
 

Pierre Girardin

Pierre Girardin, son of Vincent Girardin, is the 13th generation of his family to make wine in Burgundy. Pierre spent a significant part of his childhood in his family’s vineyards and cellar, both helping and learning from his father. Vincent sold the family domaine and négociant business in 2011 but kept 4.5 hectares of his best sites, primarily in Meursault, Pommard and Volnay, to pass onto his son. The family’s widespread contacts throughout the Côte d’Or have enabled Pierre to supplement his domaine sites with long-term contracts with top growers. Pierre completed his first vintage aged 21 years old.
  
Pommard
12 bot @ £210 per 6, in bond
Darker fruit than their Volnay, showing the firmer, more concentrated Pommard typicality. Savoury and satisfying, with a long and appetising finish. Quite safe, but with potential to grow more interesting with maturity. 
Drink 2023 – 2038.
17+ points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com

Volnay
18 bot @ £200 per 6, in bond
Blueberry and raspberry fruit, violet and sweet spice providing youthful complexity, and the finish has a toasted oak spiciness. Sleek and modern, but with the body and fine tannic weave of good Volnay. 
Drink 2022 – 2032.
16.5 points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
  
Meursault Les Charrons
12 bot @ £235 per 6, in bond
Boldly oaked but the stewed-apple fruit is admirably balanced. Zesty acidity provides welcome crispness to the full body. This has everything in the right place, and plenty of leesy complexity on the length. 
Drink 2020 – 2030.
17.5 points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
 
Bourgogne Blanc Eclat de Calcaire
18 bot @ £100 per 6, in bond
Chalky and snappy, with the natural tension that eludes some of the warmer sites in 2018. Hardly complex, but with appetising natural refreshment. 
Drink 2019 – 2021. 16.5 points Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com 
 

More Current Offers:

2018 Chablis

2018 Bouchard Pere & Fils


 

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