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Louis Roederer Collection 242 Brut (750ml)
 



JS92 - James Suckling

Just the right amount of reduction here, holding lemon, white peach, wild cherries and more savory notes of spice and grilled nuts really fresh. The palate delivers punchy impact with impressive build and a nicely honed textural thread. Acidity, as ever, is paramount. Drink now.    (10/2017)

恰到好處的減少量,拿著檸檬,白桃,野櫻桃和更多香料和烤堅果的香味非常新鮮。口感帶來強勁的衝擊力,令人印象深刻的構造和精美的紋理線程。酸性,一如既往,至關重要。現在喝。



RP90 - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Roederer's NV Brut Premier is a classic and blends about 40% Pinot Noir (from Bouzy and Ambonnay), with 20-25% Meunier (whose share is declining in this blend) and Chardonnay. Two-thirds of the grapes come from estate vineyards, one-third is purchased. (Mind you that all the other Roederer cuvées are sourced exclusively form their own vineyards!) The newest release of the Premier is based on 75% 2009 and 25% reserve wines, which are, since 1996, single vintage wines aged in large oak casks between 6,000 and 10,000 liters. The wine opens very bright, precise and refined, with toasty and white chocolate flavors. Absolutely delicate and elegant on the palate, this is a light, silky textured and remarkably finesse-full Champagne that is fresh on the palate, thanks to its structure and slightly oaky flavors. Excellent.

Roederer的NV Brut Premier是一款經典款,混合了約40%的Pinot Noir(來自Bouzy和Ambonnay),20-25%的Meunier(其份額在這種混合物中下降)和Chardonnay。三分之二的葡萄來自莊園葡萄園,三分之一的葡萄來自購買。 (請注意,所有其他Roederercuvées都來自他們自己的葡萄園!)Premier的最新版本基於75%的2009年和25%的儲備葡萄酒,自1996年以來,在大橡木桶中陳釀的單一葡萄酒在6,000到10,000升之間。葡萄酒開啟非常明亮,精確和精緻,帶有烤麵包和白巧克力口味。口感極其精緻優雅,採用輕盈,絲滑質感,非常精緻的香檳,口感清新,由於其結構和略帶橡木味的口感。優秀。




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Order  HK$3000 or above for free delivery
Limited stock while last
Please call us at 8106 1666 or email sales@y18.hk to place order.

訂購滿HK$3000或以上享免費送貨服務
數量有限,售完即止
請致電8106 1666  WhatsApp 65138288 或電郵sales@y18.hk下訂單。

(Delivery fees will be waived for online order HK$3000 or above)
(網上訂購HK$3000或以上送貨費將免除)






Louis Roederer is replacing its much-loved Brut Premier with a new Multi-Vintage cuvée: Louis Roederer Collection 242. Michael Edwards reports from the launch and reviews the first edition. 

Roederer’s Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon opened his virtual presentation on July 22 with his customary focus and clarity. “I am very happy to introduce Collection 242 and the idea of what is behind the wine; also why we moved at a time when it was seen as a great Multi-Vintage. So, we decided to rename it and change the philosophy of course behind. Not that we were not happy with Brut Premier, but it had done its job.”

From Brut Premier to Collection 242

A little context. Brut Premier was created in 1986, essentially as a reforming return to the precepts of rigorous winemaking following the 1970s, a nightmare decade in Champagne hit by relentless icy harvests. “Only two vintages were of great quality,” JBL reveals, “picking late into mid-October. Another pressing issue was that this was the age of the ‘new’ viticulture, bringing pesticides and clonal selection to increase yields.”


In response to this difficult situation, Roederer President Jean-Claude Rouzaud (a qualified enologist) created a blending philosophy that brought more ripeness to less ripe grapes—a necessary correction—through old reserve wines aged oxidatively in oak casks. Dosage, unsurprisingly, was 12g/l. At heart, this was a fight for ripeness, won by creating in the cellar what was lacking in ripeness in the vineyards.

For all the grandes maisons, the guiding ideal for Non-Vintage cuvées was a consistent house style. Over the past couple of decades, however, it has been possible to lower dosage levels thanks to the greater frequency of warmer harvests, the trigger being 2002, a fantastic vintage of beautiful, ripe wines. And especially in such a successful year, the desire for consistency inevitably meant lowering potential quality by adding less intense and less expressive reserve wines. “This is where we saw there was something wrong with the idea of blending,” Jean-Baptiste explained.

Nearly 40 years on from the first Brut Premier, there have been massive changes in Roederer’s vineyards, and contract growers have been encouraged to switch to organic or more sustainable regimes. Result: more concentrated, healthier grapes, harvested earlier.

Re-thinking the Multi-Vintage

For Jean-Baptiste, “All these factors have pushed us to rethink the blending and the Multi-Vintage idea. Today, when you blend a Multi-Vintage, the idea is not to fight for ripeness, it is to fight for freshness. Considering the tools available, the first tool is soil. I believe that most of the freshness in the context of climate change and viticulture is coming from deepening the roots of our vines, getting them into the chalk, to get more extract and lower pH (not more acidity as such). Soil is the reservoir of freshness that we must work on.”

Six years ago, a crucial decision was taken to change the process of buying Roederer’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Meunier grapes. Now, the house no longer buys grapes but rather rents plots under long-term contracts in chosen sites, “where the soil gives us the identity we are looking for.” The enologist in charge of the program reviews the plots three times a year to discuss the current growing conditions with the grower partners. As well as drawing as deeply as possible on the “reservoir of freshness” in the vineyards, the Lécaillon team, with the full support of CEO Frédéric Rouzaud, decided to create a perpetual reserve, half Pinot Noir, half Chardonnay, some 15,000hl (more than 396,000 US gallons) in total, with very little oxygen ingress. Reductively aged non-malo wines gives beautiful freshness here.

Perpetual reserve: Muting the vintage

The idea of the perpetual reserve started in 2012, and includes the same volume each of the 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2016 vintages—all winners. “The idea is to mute the vintage, mute the variety, and just retain the soil expression of different vintages, aged reductively. Then we add 10% oak-aged reserve wines. The average time in oak is just four years, which explains why the wine is fruitier than it was after eight years in oak for the Brut Premier,” Jean-Baptiste concluded.

The Collection number represents the number of blends since the foundation of the house in 1776, and will eventually allow Champagne lovers to choose their Collection release according to their preferred degree of maturity—another advantage of the new approach.

Tasting Louis Roederer Collection 242

Collection 242 comprises 34% perpetual reserve, 10% oak-aged reserve wine from the 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2016 vintages—this combined 44% is where the real revolution is taking place—and 56% from the 2017 vintage, especially Chardonnay, the most successful variety in that testing year,  plus Pinot Noir and Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne in particular.

Louis Roederer 正在用一種新的多年份特釀取代其備受喜愛的 Brut Premier:Louis Roederer Collection 242。Michael Edwards 報導了發布會並評論了第一版。

Roederer 的主廚 Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon 於 7 月 22 日以他一貫的專注和清晰的方式開始了他的虛擬演示。 “我很高興向大家介紹 Collection 242 以及這款酒背後的想法;這也是為什麼我們在它被視為偉大的 Multi-Vintage 的時候搬家的原因。所以,我們決定重命名它並改變背後的理念。並不是說我們對 Brut Premier 不滿意,而是它已經完成了它的工作。”

從 Brut Premier 到 Collection 242

一點背景。 Brut Premier 誕生於 1986 年,本質上是在 1970 年代之後對嚴格釀酒規則的改革回歸,香檳經歷了無情的冰凍收成,這是一個噩夢般的十年。 “只有兩個年份質量上乘,”JBL 透露,“採摘時間為 10 月中旬。另一個緊迫的問題是,這是‘新’葡萄栽培的時代,使用殺蟲劑和克隆選擇來提高產量。”


為了應對這種困難局面,Roederer 總裁 Jean-Claude Rouzaud(一位合格的釀酒師)創造了一種混合理念,通過在橡木桶中氧化陳釀的陳年儲備葡萄酒,使不太成熟的葡萄更加成熟——這是一項必要的修正。不出所料,劑量為 12g/l。從本質上講,這是一場為成熟而戰,通過在地窖中創造葡萄園中缺乏成熟的東西來贏得勝利。

對於所有大品牌來說,非年份酒的指導理想是一致的房屋風格。然而,在過去的幾十年裡,由於採收頻率更高,因此有可能降低劑量水平,觸發因素是 2002 年,這是一個美妙、成熟的葡萄酒的美妙年份。尤其是在如此成功的一年中,對一致性的渴望不可避免地意味著通過添加強度較低、表現力較低的儲備葡萄酒來降低潛在質量。 “這就是我們看到混合的想法有問題的地方,”讓-巴蒂斯特解釋說。

從第一屆 Brut Premier 開始將近 40 年,Roederer 的葡萄園發生了巨大的變化,鼓勵合同種植者轉向有機或更可持續的製度。結果:更集中、更健康的葡萄,更早收穫。

重新思考多年份

對於 Jean-Baptiste 來說,“所有這些因素都促使我們重新思考混合和 Multi-Vintage 的想法。今天,當您調配 Multi-Vintage 時,其理念不是為成熟而戰,而是為新鮮而戰。考慮到可用的工具,第一個工具是土壤。我相信在氣候變化和葡萄栽培的背景下,大部分新鮮度來自加深我們葡萄藤的根部,讓它們進入白堊,以獲得更多的提取物和更低的 pH 值(而不是更多的酸度)。土壤是我們必須努力的新鮮水庫。”

六年前,做出了一項重要決定,以改變購買 Roederer 的黑比諾、霞多麗和莫尼耶葡萄的過程。現在,這所房子不再購買葡萄,而是根據長期合同在選定的地點租用土地,“那裡的土壤給了我們正在尋找的身份。”負責該項目的釀酒師每年對地塊進行三次審查,與種植者合作夥伴討論當前的種植條件。除了盡可能深入地利用葡萄園的“新鮮儲備”,Lécaillon 團隊在首席執行官 Frédéric Rouzaud 的全力支持下,決定創建一個永久儲備,半黑比諾,半霞多麗,約 15,000 升(總共超過 396,000 加侖),氧氣進入很少。還原陳釀的非馬洛葡萄酒在這裡帶來美麗的新鮮感。

永久儲備:使年份靜音

永久儲備的想法始於 2012 年,包括相同數量的 2013、2014、2015 和 2016 年份——都是優勝者。 “我們的想法是讓年份靜音,讓品種靜音,只保留不同年份的土壤表達,還原陳釀。然後我們添加 10% 的橡木陳釀儲備葡萄酒。在橡木桶中的平均時間只有四年,這解釋了為什麼這款酒比 Brut Premier 在橡木桶中八年之後的果味更濃,”Jean-Baptiste 總結道。

Collection 編號代表自 1776 年酒莊成立以來的混合數量,最終將允許香檳愛好者根據他們喜歡的成熟度選擇他們的 Collection 版本——新方法的另一個優勢。

品嚐路易王妃系列 242

Collection 242 包括 34% 的永久儲備,10% 的 2009、2011、2013、2014、2015 和 2016 年份的橡木陳釀葡萄酒——這 44% 是真正發生革命的地方——56% 來自 2017年份,尤其是霞多麗,這是當年測試中最成功的品種,尤其是來自馬恩河谷的黑比諾和莫尼耶。
                          
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Remarks
1. Stocks available subject to final confirmation. 
2. All above wine is 75cl except stated.
3. RP - Wine Advocate Robert Parker, JS - James Suckling, WS - Wine Spectator, WE - Wine Enthusiast, CT- Cellar Tracker
4. Photo for reference only
5. Y18 Elegant Spirits Limited reserves the right to change the above terms without prior notice.
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